Only one, Tanera Mor, is inhabited and is perhaps best known for issuing its own postage stamps - something it's done since nineteen seventy. Given that according to the 2001 census only five people live on this roadless three and a half kilometre square lump of torrodonian sandstone I've never been entirely sure how they've kept the post office staffed, but fortunately such issues happen above my pay grade so I've never really worried about it.
We've often gazed across the waters of the Minch and considered paying it a visit, but somehow have never quite managed to actually do it. One day, perhaps...
The truth is our interest in these islands is firmly rooted on the shore that overlooks them - but more of that later.
If you're not approaching by sea, there are only two routes in to the isolated little enclave of villages that occupy the mainland shore beneath the shadow of Ben More Coigach and Stac Pollaigh.You can take the narrow, single track twisty road that runs out of Lochinver, past the Culag woods, the school and Loch Culag, or you can take the narrow, single track, twisty road that branches off the A835 about half way between Ullapool and Elphin, with Cul Baeg and Stac Pollaigh on your right and Ben More Coigaich on your left.
Either way, the scenery is spectacular and the road is easier than you'd imagine. I've said this before, but I've never understood why some people have an issue with single track roads - all you have to do is drive at a sensible speed and pay attention to what's in front of you and what's coming up behind. Things that you should be doing anyway if you're behind the wheel of a car.
So.
The little twisty road winds its way along the northern shore of Loch Gurlainn, on the other side of which stands the lumpen mass of Ben Mor Coigach - all seven hundred and forty three metres of it. Like many big hills in, poor old Ben Mor doesn't look all that impressive. It is, essentially a big rolling rounded lump. As you approach the end of Loch Lurgainn the more diminutive Stac Polliagh (a whole ninety metres shorter) sits demurely on your right, presenting a far more interesting vista.
There's a fairly sizable car park at the base of Stac Pollaigh (it's pronounced "Stak Polly") should you wish to make the ascent. I've never climbed it - but am assured that the summit requires rather a lot of rock scrambling which pretty much guarantees I never will. I'm a hill walker, not a mountaineer, the distinction being that I rather like have solid ground beneath my feet and clinging to a rock face doesn't appeal in any way...If you feel the same way, eschew the charms of the Stac Polliagh ascent and bypass the car park you'll leave Loch Lurrigann behind and almost immediately find yourself with the wider but shorter Loch Bad a Ghaill taking its place on your left hand side. To your right you'll catch some views of the sea looking north towards Stoer Point and it's lighthouse, then the road begins to climb and the sea disappears, before reappearing briefly as you descend once more to a "T" Junction. Just before the junction there is a spectacular view out over saltmarsh to a wonderful golden sandy beach and the crystal blue sea of Achnahaird Bay beyond.
It's worth stopping to take a look - especially if the weather is good, because this photograph utterly fails to do it anything approaching justice:
Honestly. It looks spectacular when you're there.
Turn right at the junction here and you can gain access to the beach a few hundred yards down the road just turn right when you see the little sign marked "to the beach" - it's a dead giveaway. It's a good beach, provided with more than ample car parking, from which you have access not only to the beach but also to a couple of pleasant footpaths, should you fancy a walk.
Continue on this road and you'll make a loop the two hundred and three metre lump of Mael an Fheadain - the road offering some impressive views to the north, although very few places to stop and enjoy them unless you're walking or cycling. As of 2012 there's a camping and caravan site along here, just outside the little settlement (it really is too small for me to call it a village) of Althandhu. It's a smart and well appointed little place, offering excellent views, great walking and access to the beach. We've never stayed there, but we probably will at some point.
As a point of information I should point out that the Camping and Caravan site marked on my copy of the local OS map by the beach at Achnahaird has been closed for some time, so if you fancy pitching up in this neck of the woods you'll need to keep going for a bit. There are a fair few self catering chalets around Altandhu as well, so there are plenty of opportunities to linger.
Altandhu is also where you'll find what used to be called the "Achiltiebuie Smokehouse", but now seems to have rebranded itself "Summer Isles Foods" - a rebranding which makes sense because while you can see some of the Summer Isles from their car park, you are manifestly not in Achiltiebuie. Here they smoke all manner of local seafood, and operate a little shop which sells not only their own wares, but also high quality stuff from other local producers.
It's a lovely place. You can't take a tour of the production line as such, but since production takes place in what are basically a couple of big sheds, there are huge windows you can peer through, with signboards outside explaining what is going on at each stage. In this pre-packed world, it is very nice indeed to see real food being made. Also, you can stand under the vent from the smoke room and breathe in the awesome smell. Honestly, two or three lungfuls of that are worth the trip ontheir own.
As you leave Altandhu the road begins to climb, and after about a quarter of a mile you have an opportunity to make a hard right turn down to the little harbour at Old Dornie. Nobody lives down there, but there is a very sheltered harbour, protected by the bulk of Isle Ristol - one of the largest of the Summer Isles, and on a sunny day it's a wonderful place to stop for a picnic.
Carry straight on and the road sweeps you on to Polbain - which is basically a street with houses strung along it like gems on a necklace - a tiny settlement posessed of one of the finest village stores we have ever seen. I have no idea how they fit everything in, but there is very little you might need that they don't have.
Beyond Polbain the road sweeps back down to sea level, and then back up towards Achiltiebuie, another sort of "necklace village" which has grown rather a lot since we first ventured down here in the nineties. Achiltiebuie is home to the object of our visit to the Summer Isles, and that my friends is the subject of the next post.
Continue on this road and you'll make a loop the two hundred and three metre lump of Mael an Fheadain - the road offering some impressive views to the north, although very few places to stop and enjoy them unless you're walking or cycling. As of 2012 there's a camping and caravan site along here, just outside the little settlement (it really is too small for me to call it a village) of Althandhu. It's a smart and well appointed little place, offering excellent views, great walking and access to the beach. We've never stayed there, but we probably will at some point.
As a point of information I should point out that the Camping and Caravan site marked on my copy of the local OS map by the beach at Achnahaird has been closed for some time, so if you fancy pitching up in this neck of the woods you'll need to keep going for a bit. There are a fair few self catering chalets around Altandhu as well, so there are plenty of opportunities to linger.
Altandhu is also where you'll find what used to be called the "Achiltiebuie Smokehouse", but now seems to have rebranded itself "Summer Isles Foods" - a rebranding which makes sense because while you can see some of the Summer Isles from their car park, you are manifestly not in Achiltiebuie. Here they smoke all manner of local seafood, and operate a little shop which sells not only their own wares, but also high quality stuff from other local producers.
It's a lovely place. You can't take a tour of the production line as such, but since production takes place in what are basically a couple of big sheds, there are huge windows you can peer through, with signboards outside explaining what is going on at each stage. In this pre-packed world, it is very nice indeed to see real food being made. Also, you can stand under the vent from the smoke room and breathe in the awesome smell. Honestly, two or three lungfuls of that are worth the trip ontheir own.
As you leave Altandhu the road begins to climb, and after about a quarter of a mile you have an opportunity to make a hard right turn down to the little harbour at Old Dornie. Nobody lives down there, but there is a very sheltered harbour, protected by the bulk of Isle Ristol - one of the largest of the Summer Isles, and on a sunny day it's a wonderful place to stop for a picnic.
Carry straight on and the road sweeps you on to Polbain - which is basically a street with houses strung along it like gems on a necklace - a tiny settlement posessed of one of the finest village stores we have ever seen. I have no idea how they fit everything in, but there is very little you might need that they don't have.
Beyond Polbain the road sweeps back down to sea level, and then back up towards Achiltiebuie, another sort of "necklace village" which has grown rather a lot since we first ventured down here in the nineties. Achiltiebuie is home to the object of our visit to the Summer Isles, and that my friends is the subject of the next post.
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